A New (Zealand) start

15^th March – 17^th March (Christchurch)

Life is most certainly a rollercoaster (credit to Ronan Keating for that one). After a bit of a scare getting into New Zealand due to the Coronavirus, I flew into Auckland and then Christchurch. After a short wait (filled by bananas and rice cakes) a special someone arrived on the train. It was amazing to see mum after four months and although the evening was low key (a rather sleepless night was had previously) we knew the next weeks would be memorable for us both.

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I woke to a glorious New Zealand day. The sun was shining and with shops filled with gluten free food, we had a very late breakfast of yoghurt, bananas, honey and muesli. We had a lot to talk about and the Botanical Gardens were a beautiful setting for that to happen. We also stumbled across the Canterbury museum. With exhibitions about a range of things related to New Zealand, we learnt first about the first settlers (the tangata whenua or people of the land) who arrived 800 years ago. From their hunting habits, to culture and their weapons, the museum had it all. Other exhibitions covered more recent history and with free admission this is a must visit for anyone in Christchurch. In the afternoon we explored the new city, rebuilt since the earthquake of the 22nd February 2011. We also visited a temporary art installation for the 185 people who died during the earthquake. One empty chair for each person (all shapes and sizes, reflecting the person it is meant to represent) it was a moving tribute.

‘It is better to have this pain, than to have done without this love’.

Across the street the transitional Cathedral was beautiful. It was open, light and simplistic and in many ways how every church should be. The city library was similar, reminding me strongly of one in Helsinki (if my memory serves me correctly). Then we had probably the best chips I’ve ever eaten, rosemary and sea salt and very chunky. An afternoon walk around some lakes capped the day.

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On Christchurch day two, we went to the International Antarctic Centre. On arrival we visited the penguin feeding site, where we saw the Little Blue and White Flippered penguins. The awesome little guys have been rescued (due to physical disabilities such as blindness or paralysis to a flipper they would not have survived on their own in the wild) and are cared for by the staff at the centre. We learnt about their feeding habits, how they grow new feathers (and their malting period) as well as seeing them feast on fish. These penguins are also a dark blue on their heads and backs and white on their breasts and stomach, with the counter shade plumage making it difficult for both aerial and marine predators to see them. Another fun fact; the word penguin comes from Welsh ‘pen gywn’, meaning white head. Who’d have guessed? Next up was a Haggland ride. Developed for the Swedish army in 1974, this all-terrain vehicle has wide tracks and a low centre of gravity meaning it can cope with the tough conditions in Antarctica. We did an obstacle course of hills, swamps and wooden ramps to simulate conditions they have to encounter. It was pretty awesome!! We then petted huskies (one was called Porridge much to my delight), watched a 4D film about travelling to Antartica (from Argentina) and learnt about the continent in the exhibition, which also showcased the research by scientists who live on the barren continent all year round.

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17^th March – 18^th March (Kaikoura)

In the late afternoon (17^th) we picked up a car and travelled for a few hours north of Christchurch to Kaikoura. The drive was spectacular, especially the latter section along the coast. In the evening we walked along the beach, watching towering waves crash against the black rocks, with moody skies above. Our Airbnb was a small but comfortable cabin and we enjoyed a picnic in bed. In the morning we were awake early (another sleepless night) so walked again along the beach. We watched the sunrise over the bay, with the moody skies replaced by blue. With snow-capped peaks in the distance, volcanic rocks on the beach, the sound of the waves and the warmth of the morning sun, I felt (for the first time in a while), at peace with myself and the world. Breakfast was Weetabix (a first for me) before we took once more to the road. Completely by accident we discovered Ohau point, where hundreds of seals were basking and playing in the salt water pools. We were spellbound. Moments like this are why I love to travel. Raw nature. The onwards drive was so scenic, windy roads, vineyards, pine trees and mountains. It reminded me of road tripping in Canada. We then arrived at Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve and did a 4 hour walk (steep hill) to Trig K Lookout. The views were outstanding and the forest walking was peaceful (well apart from mum rabbiting on at me the whole time).

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18^th March – 20^th March (Marlborough Sounds)

Our Airbnb for the night was hands down the best I’ve ever stayed in. The hosts (David and Sarah) were so welcoming and we shared their kitchen and chatted about travels. In the evening David took us down to see a glow-worm cave, which was one of my favourite moments of the entire trip. We went to a small grotto in the forest and watched them emerge and sparkle against the rock. Then we lay on bean bags and star gazed, with insanely rich and beautiful night skies. I actually can’t find the words to describe just how memorable today has been.

On our second day in Marlborough sounds we walked the Doom Track, which was down the valley from our Airbnb. The name of our new home, ‘Off the beaten track’ couldn’t be more appropriate. It’s heaven. Mountains, rivers, walking tracks, rock pools for swimming. Our hosts are loving life. In the afternoon we walked a small chunk of the Queen Charlotte track which was also very scenic. With Norwegian-style fjords down to our left hand side and noisy forest to our right, the setting was perfect for some deep conversations. After some more home cooking we are going to lie in a jacuzzi and star gaze tonight. Yep… I told you the Airbnb was good!! It’s been surreal enjoying the tranquillity of New Zealand with so much chaos and confusion in the world (both personal and afar).

All I can say is that with so many people suffering across the world I feel truly blessed to be here in New Zealand. I hope everyone is keeping safe and that my blog post isn’t making self-isolation even worse (however boring it might be…). It’s fair to say I didn’t think I would be where I am one week ago…

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